Skill Builders Series – Foundation Piecing

22 10 2012

Woot! Another Skill Builder’s Post from me, finally! This one is all about foundation piecing, also known as paper-piecing, but not the English sort. ūüôā

Sandi has done a Skill Builder’s / Test Your Skills Sampler post over at Piecemeal Quilts, focusing on the spiral block. I’ll be using the Crossed Canoes block today. Sandi did a lovely mini-quilt using this block (photo used with permission):

Mini Kayaks

I’ve created a PDF of the foundation templates, available for download. When printing your PDF, please be sure to select ‘Actual Size’. Also be sure to download the PDF, instead of printing from Google Docs, and print from your PDF reading program. I personally use Adobe Acrobat Professional. Adobe Acrobat Reader is a free download, and I know there are other free programs out there.

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I also advise measuring your templates, to guarantee that they’ve come out at the right size. This particular block will finish at 9″ inches, so each quadrant should be at 5″ with their seam allowances. When cutting these apart, I do not cut right at the seam allowance. I just do a rough trim around the edges.

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I prefer to sew right through the foundation paper, versus using freezer paper like Sandi does. There’s quite a few products available for this. I’ve personally used Carol Doak’s Foundation Paper and Martingale’s Papers for Foundation Piecing. I’ve not noticed an advantage between either of them, other than price point. I can typically find the Martingale’s Papers for Foundation Piecing at a much cheaper price, particularly on Amazon.

I create most of my foundation piecing templates all through EQ7, because it’s a handy program and I lurv it to death. Now, a word on creating foundation piecing templates in this program… Actually, more of an illustration:

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I like to ensure that I have the options ‘Mirror’ and ‘Grayscale’ are selected. ‘Mirror’ is critical for blocks that aren’t symmetrical. I like ‘Grayscale’ for differentiating which fabrics go where.

I opted to use only three fabrics, since I plan on using the block in my own version of the Test Your Skills Sampler:

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1. I started by cutting strips from each fabric. In this instance, I cut a 4″ by width of fabric strip of the background solid, and 3″ by width of fabric strips of the yellow and dark teal fabrics.¬† I decided on these widths by laying my foundation pattern over my fabric:

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2. Start by cutting off an appropriate sized chunk of fabric to cover the inner corner of a quadrant. I like to hold the foundation paper and fabric up to the light to confirm that I’m covering the complete area, including seam allowance. The right side of the fabric should be facing away from you. In the picture below, the right side of the fabric is toward the ceiling. Now, you can actually do this for two quadrants at a time, since we’re doing a symmetrical block. That is, of course, assuming you’re using the same number of fabrics I am.

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3. Once the first piece of fabric is in place, align your second piece, to cover your next patch. In this case, we’re looking to cover the center, the long part of the ‘canoe’. Note that the two fabrics are facing each other. When paper piecing, you’re essentially working in reverse, so no worries!

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4. Now sew along the line indicated the seam between the corner triangle and the long part of the canoe:

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5. Once you’ve done that, flip the paper over, so it’s on the bottom, and iron the canoe open. I will admit that you do not have to iron this. Some folks are content to finger press this. I don’t like the puffiness that can result, so I dry iron a lot when I’m paper-piecing.

6. Fold back your corner, and trim to a 1/4″ seam allowance. Ignore that the teal fabric is magically bigger… I took this photo belatedly, when I was making the other half of the block.

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7. Now, you’ll take your background fabric and line it up with the seam line for one side of the canoe, ensuring that you’re leaving adequate seam allowance.

8. Sew along the line again. Here, you’ll want to trim back to a normal seam allowance, since the canoe narrows toward the corner.

9. Fold your paper back. You’ll have to tear the paper along the seam you’ve already sewn.

10. Trim to your 1/4″. If you’re working on a very small scale, you can reduce the seam allowance, to reduce bulk. The paper will stabilize that seam allowance while you’re working.

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11. Once it’s trimmed, press fabrics open. Then repeat steps 7 through 10 for the other side of the canoe, and you should have something like this:

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You’ll notice that the paper actually extends past the fabric. Again, this is because I don’t cut the paper down to exactly the seam allowances. Again, if you’re making a symmetrical block, you’ll actually have two units like this.

12. Flip to your paper side, and trim down to a 5″ square, following the printing on the paper. You’ll now have a very neat half a canoe:

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Now that you’ve done (at least) the one quadrant, the other half of the block is just as easy! Repeat your piecing instructions for the other half of the block, using the appropriate fabric. Also, refer back to the photo¬† in Step 6. See how the fabric is reversed from the photo in Step 3? I did that to eliminate some of the bulk when putting all four quadrants together.

Once you’ve made all four quadrants, it’s time to remove the foundation paper. I start by folding the paper over, and weakening the paper further by dragging my thumbnail along the fold. Then I tear it, which is made easy as the needle essentially perforated the paper. Once you’ve done both sides of the canoe, you can simply lift the middle section of paper out.

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Once it’s all of your paper is removed, it’s time for the final step of putting it all together. I pressed the seams to one side in order to nest them together for more accuracy…

There you have it. Paper-piecing and crossed canoes as simple as I could make it! Sorry that I’m a day late – I had photos done for this earlier, but I was totally wiped after work yesterday. I ended up pulling dozens of boxes out of the backroom and restocking a ton of stuff. Very, very sore after that.

Still, done and done. Time to get to sewing more of the Test Your Skills Sampler!





Skill Builder Series – Leaders, Enders and Strings

29 10 2011

Waaay back in May, I wrote a small post on leaders and enders as part of the Skill Builders Series. In a recent post, Weekend Recap, I mentioned that I’d done my string blocks as leaders and enders and I received a comment from Lynne asking:

I am new to the concept of leaders/enders; I haven’t used them and don’t chain piece (yet). Could you please explain how you use the string blocks as your leader/ender project for this novice (who is always keen to learn something new)?

I thought about replying in an email to her, but then realized that it was clearly time for another tutorial, because of all the photos I would be taking anyway. So, Lynne, here is the tutorial I promised all that time ago. I’m just sorry it took me this long to find time to sit down and write this! And, I’m sorry that the photos are dark. Now that I’m working two jobs, most of my sewing time is stolen from those hours that I should be sleeping!

Let me preface the tutorial itself by saying that I typically use string blocks as the no-thinking portion of my sewing and to keep the machine running whenever I’m working on a block or series of blocks that require me to stop and start. When I took the photos for this tutorial, I was working on blocks for the Test Your Skills Sampler (which I have to photograph and catch up on, bad me!). This means that I have the pieces pre-cut for whatever my primary project is. Pre-cutting is the only way that I’ve been able to maximize my time at the sewing machine lately, so this means that I have tons of time for string blocks too.

So, in addition to having my primary piecing ready to go, I have my components for the string blocks ready to go:

Because of the sheer number of string blocks that I’ll need to complete a top, I simply bought a pad of lined notebook paper at my local office supply store while it was on sale for the start of the school year. At the same time, I went to the printing department there and had them cut the paper into 7″ squares for me. They can do up to 250 sheets as once, which totally beats my one at a time. I know 7″ seems like a weird size. I actually end up trimming the blocks down to 6 1/2″, for a finished size of 6″. There’s a little more waste this way, but this way I’m certain that I have enough seam allowance.

As you can see from the photo above, I’ve drawn my initial sewing lines on to each sheet. That middle portion of each block is a 1″ finished wide stripe of Kona White, to give the top some continuity (whenever it actually becomes a top). I pre-cut my strips of Kona to 1 1/2″. I really should remember, next time, to cut them at 1 3/4″, so that I don’t have to be quite so precise when placing the fabric for these first two seams.

Some time ago, I reduced a bunch of my scraps to strips of various widths. I knew that I wanted to make a string quilt, but I didn’t want every seam to match up. I wanted some variety, especially since I knew that my scraps wouldn’t all provide the necessary width to produce, say, 1″ strips. Some of my pre-cut strips start at 3/4″, so that the finished size is only 1/4″. Very little was too thin for this project. My favorite part about having all of these strips pre-cut is that I literally just threw them into a box. I blindly reach into the box, check to make sure the strip is long enough and sew it on if it’s long enough. Randomness is not a problem with this ‘organization’.

I had a caboose left in the machine from the sewing session previous to this one, so I started working on my primary project, which was the Test Your Skills Sampler Log Cabin Block:

Upon finishing that line of stitches, I lined up my white strip and sewed the first seam, right along one of those marked lines. Slight blurry photo below… Sorry!

You can just barely see the edge of the green strip blow the white one in the foreground of this photo. Right sides of the fabric should face each other, and the wrong side of the center strip will be flush against the paper. Oh, and speaking of the paper… I use the notebook paper for projects like this because it’s cheap. I’m not going to waste the Carol Doak stuff on blocks that are this simple.

Once I had that first seam sewn on the string block, I continued with my primary piecing. In the photo below, I turned over the string block so you could see the way the two strips were laid on the paper. Not that it’s especially descriptive, now that I look at it…

More alternating… Are you all getting the idea that this leader/ender thing is really good about cutting back on the waste thread that results from having to stop and start every time we rotate or add on to a block?¬† This time, I sewed sewed down along the second drawn stitching line. Again, right sides of the fabric should face each other, and the wrong side of the center strip will be flush against the paper. And, yes, I did twist the blocks around to the front of the machine to get a good photo. The night I was working on this, I did everything on my computer desk, so directly behind the sewing machine (Bessie), is my computer monitor and keyboard. Stolen moments!

I sewed a little more on the primary project, and clipped my string block off the chain in order to iron down the strips. I always iron before adding on to the block, so that I know that I won’t have any puffiness in the block, and thus preventing any pleating to take in any extra. I know they’re scrap blocks, but I can’t help myself.

As you can see, there’s extra fabric running over the sides of the paper. Again, I trim down at the end of the process.

So I pick another strip, and sew it down, followed by work on the primary project. At this point in the primary project, I’d finished the center of the log cabin block and was starting to add the first non-background fabric round.

So, I kept going, alternating string block with log cabin block, always checking the next potential strip to be the right length. If it was too long, I just cut off the part that was too long and threw that bit back into the box of scrappy strips.

…and the Log Cabin and string block just keep growing…

…and growing…

…and growing…

At this point, I’m sure you get the idea. I’ll save you from more progress photos that are essentially the same. In the end, I had a Log Cabin block, in which I took some artistic liberty and didn’t make all of the non-background rounds from the same fabric.

I also had a couple string blocks like this:

I always trim these from the back, so that I can be sure that the white strip in the center of the block is centered. Again, these are cut down to 6.5″ for a finished size of 6″. They should come out looking something like:

Obviously, you can make these string blocks whatever size you like. You may also use fabric as your foundation. I prefer the paper, so that I can tear it away and reduce the bulk, because I do plan on using batting in this project when I reach the quilting stage. By using paper, I am limited by paper sizes, especially since I don’t like using standard copy or printing paper. It’s thicker and doesn’t tear away as easily.

And that’s string blocks, used as leader/ender projects. Don’t you just love how quickly and easily these can come together?